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Friday
Sep 18 2015

面试:吉莉安·阿姆斯特朗Orry-Kelly Documentary and Why the Film Industry Needs Affirmative Action

何塞采访一套新的服装设计,纪录片在TIFF主任

奥里·凯利与凯弗朗西斯。照片由斯科蒂鲍尔斯的

In女性,他的脱了衣服, the extraordinary Gillian Armstrong paints a delightful portrait of Australian costume designer Orry-Kelly whose bold designs changed Hollywood forever (he was the first costume designer to draw the actors' faces on his designs!).The brilliant man behind Ingrid Bergman’s tasteful suits in卡萨布兰卡, Rosalind Russell’s larger than life gowns in阿姨马梅, and Marilyn Monroe’s nude dress from热情似火(he did Jack and Tony’s dresses too) had an exciting life that had him leave his small hometown to find a career in a budding industry across the world.From gangsters and plays with an unknown Katharine Hepburn, to affairs with Cary Grant and uprisings with Bette Davis, Orry-Kelly’s life was so rich that one wonders why no one had done a film about him before.

在典型的阿姆斯特朗时尚,纪录片被告知有异想天开的一夜暴富(达伦·吉尔希南扮演奥利谁从信件读取并添加注释),并设有科琳·阿姆斯特朗,迈克尔·威尔金森,简·方达,凯瑟琳·马丁,安吉拉·兰斯伯里和传说中的安·罗斯的采访,所有 of whom express their admiration for Orry, and share anecdotes about working with him.片中饰演在多伦多电影节上,我有机会与女士交谈阿姆斯特朗有关发现奥利的工作,与安·罗特工作(“一个人应该做的纪录片她旁边,她的非凡”)和她的想法的方式对待行业的女性。

奥里·凯利,澳大利亚的奥斯卡奖得主,和艺术家电影主题后跳...

莱斯女孩(1958)获奥里·凯利第二他的三个奥斯卡亚博主页

JOSE:你刚才提到,你不知道太多关于奥里·凯利,你开始对电影工作之前。

吉莉恩·阿姆斯特朗:The father of my producer, Damien Parer, was the first Australian to ever win an Academy Award in 1945 for his documentary科科达。Damien was named after his father, who died soon after, and he went on to become a film and television producer.He was researching Australians who’d won awards and there he saw Orry’s name, who at that point with three, had won more Academy Awards than any other Australian, until Catherine Martin won her fourth.He realized that not many people knew him and thought he deserved a film, so he asked me if I was interested in doing a documentary, and I’m ashamed to admit I originally went “well, who’s he?” Then I looked at his filmography and realized I knew all those films!I’ve cried to卡萨布兰卡, I’ve seen阿姨马梅第42街马耳他之鹰...I couldn’t believe they were designed by the same person, who also happened to be an Australia.I have to say that having worked on my own films with some of the world’s most wonderful costume designers I really do think it’s an unheralded art.People don’t really understand the amount of work and genius that goes on behind the scenes, so I was keen to tell that side of the story.Not only to research Orry’s life, but also to show what contribution costume designers make to movies.

JOSE:我很震惊,也笑了一下,当我们听到小提琴触电舞者轶事,在那些复杂的序列之一1933年淘金者...

(Laughs)

...。所以这让我想到的演播室系统如何实现这个概念,电影是所有的魅力和魔力,通常试图让观众尽可能少的了解才能使电影尽可能的工作。

吉莉恩·阿姆斯特朗:我好伤心的日子已经一去不复返了!有了这些了不起的艺术家谁缝纫和刺绣做。成百上千的人谁帮助促进这些服饰。

你觉得这个想法的电影魔术表现凭空的,在某些方面不敏感的观众?二战后,美国社会成为所有关于消费,没有想到很多关于进入创建新汽车或多士炉劳动。


我想这是有很多幕后的区域相同。有多少,我们真的要放弃大约多的努力如何进入的一切,脚本,编辑,作曲家,需要改变一首乐曲造成或中断你的电影。我们的每一个角色,如导演,摄影师和演员,就是要创造一个世界,你的观众将要进入。你不希望他们考虑的技巧,当你讲一个故事。如果你告诉一个关于有人像奥利例如故事,说是有史以来最伟大的服装设计师之一,你想向人们展示他怎么样让他那么好。

科琳·阿特伍德说,在膜经典电影渗入你的无意识像梦一样,你知道他们对你的生活更晚的效果。我喜欢当她说,设计剪刀手爱德华来自伊尔玛拉杜丝

Good, you picked that up!A lot of people don’t pick that up and I thought I should explain more about it.It was a really funny thing, because almost everyone I interviewed had a favorite Orry-Kelly movie and I asked them to talk about it in more depth, so the morning that Colleen came to the interview she said she wanted to talk about伊尔玛拉杜丝, so I put on the DVD and it was only looking at the film on that day during the interview when it struck her, she said “oh my god, this is it, this is Johnny’s dress!”, the color scheme too, she had taken it subliminally.Movies do that to us, a lot of people asked me how I decided on the lighting and the color of my films, and I think it was just being in film school for three years.Watching the best European films, I was saturated with the beauty of规规矩矩, or a Bertolucci film, I wasn’t consciously doing it, but it surfaces eventually.I always tell young filmmakers, go see the best cinema, you should have the best influence, don’t stay at home and watch badly lit soap operas, see everything!

你已经做了关于艺术家和作家这么多部电影...

I have, haven’t I?(Laughs)

...有什么吸引你的这么多关于创作过程中有你做一下电影?

It hasn’t been planned.我的光辉生涯was about someone who was fighting repression as an artist, and finally wrote a book.I’d never even heard of the book before, my producer brought it to me, but let me tell you what happens in the industry is that the minute you make something, everyone wants you to make the same thing again, so I was offered so many stories about women achievers, period pieces...and that’s why I went to do追星族instead.我想证明我不只是感兴趣的是那些讲一个女人在世界上的作用,我感兴趣的其他事情。因此,当多年后丹妮丝·迪·诺维给了我小女人,我说没有像三次,我说我已经做了一个关于一个女人的作家电影,所以她巧妙地告诉我我的光辉生涯一直年前完成,这是一个新的一代,并认为这是一个关于家庭的故事。她是对的,我想抓住人们对这个故事是姐妹。I also did a documentary about wallpaper designer Florence Broadhurst, and it wasn’t just that her designs were wonderful, she also had an amazing life, she was so naughty, a con artist, she was murdered in the end, and there were many people who might have done it.这不仅是对她的艺术,作为技工的利益我,但也对她的生活故事。同样为奥利,除了艺术方面,它也对同性恋的憎恶,以及他与加里·格兰特的关系也是如此。

简·方达和阿娇阿姆斯特朗。信用:安娜·霍华德

考虑如何了不起达伦是他扮演奥利部分。你是否曾经试图把电影变成一个完全成熟的传记片?

那么没有预算,我们有,我怕(笑)。我还是爱你的纪录片,因为当你可以从时间显示报纸剪辑和镜头,有一个不同的艺术拍纪录片的,但作为一个观众,你也觉得这是真理。你听到人们在谈论他,我想展示他的作品也是如此。谁做他的传记片,和这里的希望,因为他的回忆录现在正在发布,并得到从重建所有这些精彩的场面一个美国人在巴黎和巴斯比伯克利电影会做一个大数目。当我们选择我们的电影剪辑,我真的很想做这些导演的服务,而不是只为奥利的缘故,也为电影制片人。

好莱坞有了很大的变化,并在同一时间发生了变化如此之少。同性恋男性和女性仍然被剥夺了机会直男性有。一些同性恋演员觉得,如果他们来了,他们就没有事业...

And that’s the sad thing, of course things have changed you don’t go to jail for being gay, and very prominent actors, both male and female have come out, but we can’s only blame Hollywood for actors feeling like they need to keep their sexuality a secret, it’s also our problem, we as an audience want to believe in these people, we have fantasies watching them, and we shouldn’t mind watching handsome heroes kissing women, knowing they might be gay.这是一个疯狂的事情,演员不必是凶手打的凶手,所以这是一个观众的东西,还有一个工作室的事情。我对奥利非常钦佩,因为他没有让任何人把他变成一个假结婚,但例如有过加里·格兰特隐瞒自己的性取向是一个悲剧,这让我伤心。

女人并不总是有它好得多无论是。

I’ve started to speak out now about my feeling of frustration and shame, I’ve been a film director for over 30 years, I broke a glass ceiling in Australia, and have been followed by extraordinary women directors like Jane Campion and so on.但女导演制作专题片的数量并没有改变,考虑到它已有30多年的...当我没说小女人诺拉·依弗朗和竹篙马歇尔在做电影,今年我们有伊丽莎白·班克斯与完美音调2和凯瑟琳·哈德威克也做最近,但你还在谈论了一把,这不是一个平等的竞争环境。现在是时候采取扶持行动,就像许多有才华的年轻女性走出电影学院,和他们获奖,但他们没有得到他们的休息时间。我一直保持沉默,这些年认为它应该基于优点,但你知道,太多的时间已经过去了,这是令人震惊!我们是人口的50%,我们应该告诉我们的故事。They will give a break to some guy who’s done a rock clip, they’ll give him a $150 million dollar action film, but a woman who wins a short film award in Berlin isn’t getting a TV drama, much less an action film.它的时候,执政的人开始对平权行动思维,想想有多少有才华的年轻女性也有。这也是很难的妇女谁已经突破了,如果他们做一拍即触发器,咚,他们结束了。有一个更大的善良和慷慨一些很酷的,臀部的家伙。是的,是时候站出来说话,所以我讲出来。

女性,他的脱了衣服尚未回升,在美国发行。

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Reader Comments (8)

一个伟大的采访祝贺。我觉得自己是受访者感到高兴,因为他们是如此充分的准备,并要求此类智能,相关问题进行交谈,电影体验团队。亚博主页它总是一个快乐阅读。

September 19, 2015 | 未注册的批评家Mr.Goodbar

伟大的采访何塞。我现在想看到这部电影!

September 19, 2015 | 注册批评家Murtada Elfadl

我简要地得到了在当地的首映和她说话,她是一个真正的喜悦。虽然,只是夸耀,我肯定不是谁声称从来没有听说过他的人之一。

September 19, 2015 | 未注册的批评家格伦扣篮

我偶然看到“我的光辉生涯”,为本周首次。这是一个华丽的电影。朱迪·戴维斯是惊人的,服饰是太棒了。我简直不敢相信这是她的第一部长片。这么好!

September 19, 2015 | 未注册的批评家现金

哦,我没有听说过这个项目。我全身心的阿姆斯特朗的“追星族”,具有极大的服装说到电影!

September 19, 2015 | 未注册的批评家戴夫S.

不能等待这部电影。

September 19, 2015 | 未注册的批评家佩吉苏

我真的很喜欢这个采访,现在我很期待这部纪录片。
我必须承认,我从来没有听说过奥里·凯利之前。

有趣的是,这么多的妇女站出来,说如此有力大约在行业内持续的性别歧视。所以,在70年代到一定年龄后我们很多人都只是普通的受够了没有改善。

September 19, 2015 | 未注册的批评家LadyEdith

这有我比任何大的节日赢家更兴奋。

September 20, 2015 | 未注册的批评家vladdy